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Post by eticket on Jan 17, 2014 10:27:20 GMT -6
Never did check it with a timing light, but as for wiring it is pretty straight forward. The instructions for the 7AL3 shows you running a jumper from the ignition terminal on the box to the start retard terminal. Although there is another method in which you run a jumper from the retard terminal to the solenoid. I only tried the 1st way. May need to look at the 2nd way once I get the body off. As far as grounding I am grounded at the engine, transmission and at the battery. I would look at a different starter but my oil pan was modified to fit the starter I have. That might be option 2. Will need to wait for warmer weather for trying the retard again.
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Post by 548h on Jan 17, 2014 11:13:52 GMT -6
Never did check it with a timing light, but as for wiring it is pretty straight forward. The instructions for the 7AL3 shows you running a jumper from the ignition terminal on the box to the start retard terminal. Although there is another method in which you run a jumper from the retard terminal to the solenoid. I only tried the 1st way. May need to look at the 2nd way once I get the body off. As far as grounding I am grounded at the engine, transmission and at the battery. I would look at a different starter but my oil pan was modified to fit the starter I have. That might be option 2. Will need to wait for warmer weather for trying the retard again. The 7AL-3 should have a plug in "chip" for the start retard amount. Make sure you don't have the 0 in there or no chip at all. The box should have come with a 2, 3, 5, 10, 15, and 20 degree chip to choose from. And you should be able to test it with a timing light to make sure it is working.
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Post by eticket on Jan 17, 2014 11:14:49 GMT -6
Sorry I forgot to thank you for your information and thoughts regarding the battery and starting issues. You've given me some issues to work thru and I'll let you know what shakes out. Counting the days until warmer weather.
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Post by eticket on Jan 17, 2014 11:23:21 GMT -6
Crossed paths. Just re-read the instructions and they do not mention a chip for the ignition retard. the say it will automatically drop back 25 and when the engine rpm reaches 1300 it will go back to the normal degree. There is a connection that I have used in the past that works off a micro switch that will read what ever degree retard chip you have in the box. I used this on my door car when I went into 3rd gear to pull timing out as an experiment. Did not seem to make a difference at the time.
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Post by 548h on Jan 17, 2014 13:02:11 GMT -6
Crossed paths. Just re-read the instructions and they do not mention a chip for the ignition retard. the say it will automatically drop back 25 and when the engine rpm reaches 1300 it will go back to the normal degree. There is a connection that I have used in the past that works off a micro switch that will read what ever degree retard chip you have in the box. I used this on my door car when I went into 3rd gear to pull timing out as an experiment. Did not seem to make a difference at the time. What is the MSD part number of the 7AL-3 box you have in your car?
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Post by eticket on Jan 17, 2014 13:12:43 GMT -6
7230
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Post by 548h on Jan 17, 2014 18:05:55 GMT -6
That's an earlier version 7AL-3 box. And you are correct about the 25 degree start retard. I would check it with a timing light. Shut off the fuel supply so it won't start. Then, with the start retard enabled, crank the engine (no more than 5-10 seconds at a time) and record the timing. The cranking timing should be 25 less than the running timing. If it's not, there's your problem. Then we are gonna have to figure out why.
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Post by probrd on Jan 18, 2014 22:15:48 GMT -6
I put a 16volt XS in my car last year. It replaced the 2 Optima Red tops I had in it. I don't run an alternator either, I just charge between rounds. It worked great all season. It cranks the engine over like the spark plugs are out of it. The only problem I had was with my 12 volt CSR water pump. After the 2nd weekend the motor burnt up. I replaced it with an older spare I had. It too burnt up after 2 weekends. CSR told me they were compatible with the 16 volt battery but I didn't have much luck with them. I went ahead and bought a new 16 volt Meziere pump. No more problems. I really like my 16 volt battery.
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Post by p518 on Jan 19, 2014 6:53:50 GMT -6
A long time ago, I found that I couldn't charge my 16 volt battery while running the 12 volt cooling fan and water pump. You could cool down first and then start the charge. I burned up the 'transformer' module (if that's what it was called).
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Post by dennismopar73 on Jan 19, 2014 7:49:44 GMT -6
A long time ago, I found that I couldn't charge my 16 volt battery while running the 12 volt cooling fan and water pump. You could cool down first and then start the charge. I burned up the 'transformer' module (if that's what it was called). Doesn't surprise me at all , most 12v electronics are designed to handle up to 16 v, but always remember that even like most 12v batteries, they to hold more than 12v, most common 12v carry upwards of 12.5-12.80 volts when fully charged , thus l will bet the same goes for the 16v batteries so would not be uncommon to see failures of electronics or even the electronics lie shortened by such high voltage , The upgrading of electronic from older units is advisable some issues mandatory to upgrade to a 16v system
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Post by eticket on Jan 20, 2014 5:22:05 GMT -6
I contacted all the companies with the electronics / electrical parts on the altered and all said 16v was ok, but qualified their ok with make sure the power is off when charging as the charger puts out 19v which the equipment will not handle. When talking to the battery people they do offer 3 post batteries which you can hook up your 12v alt. to but they all said why? you don't need the alt. Leaning towards the 16v.
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Post by dennismopar73 on Jan 20, 2014 6:19:37 GMT -6
I thought everyone knew not to have the power on any electronics while charging, with a battery charger lol and even some cases while you jump another vehicule !
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Post by p518 on Jan 20, 2014 6:52:35 GMT -6
I guess we all don't (or didn't).
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Post by eticket on Jan 20, 2014 7:40:44 GMT -6
Only charged our car after we down loaded the data logger. We used to run the fan and water pump some times but with a 12v that was not an issues. 16v will be diff.
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Post by Crossbones Dennis on Jan 20, 2014 19:11:42 GMT -6
I thought everyone knew not to have the power on any electronics while charging, with a battery charger lol and even some cases while you jump another vehicule ! I've ran my fan and pump with the charger(12v) on the car. Sometimes there isn't enough time between rounds to charge separately.
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