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Post by sp7128 on Jun 30, 2016 18:05:19 GMT -6
If it's a internal bypass style pump, the piston under the brass or stainless bypass pressure adjuster is probably stuck in the pump body. Remove the complete adjuster assembly and the spring... push a piece of wire or a tie wrap through the fuel exit hole and see if the piston will push out and/or slide in the bore freely... if it doesn't, push the piston out and sand it with a scuff pad, keep putting it in the bore until it slides freely, once it slides free put the piston and spring in and make sure the spring sets in the machined cup part of the piston re-install the bypass assy and you are ready to go. (check the o-ring on they bypass adjuster assy) blp.com/cart/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=842
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Post by racerone on Jul 2, 2016 19:34:18 GMT -6
Sorry Clay it happened again but I wasn't going to redlite to you and give you another round win I needed it also . Hope the new fuel line is the answer . Good luck all July 16 our family reunion is that day see you all End of July unless Gateway changes a pts date .
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Post by 338d on Jul 2, 2016 20:21:23 GMT -6
I hope it is the answer too Don! I am really at a lost. We have changed everything ignition and fuel related now. Going to go Wednesday and try again. For those that have been following the fuel pump was not the issue as after making 2 good passes Wednesday the car would not go down the track Saturday!
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Post by 548h on Jul 3, 2016 9:46:40 GMT -6
Intermittent troubles are almost always electrical related.
Look over every wire and cable that has any thing to do with the ignition system as a whole. Don't rule out any gauges or fans that could be using ignition voltage to turn on, etc. look at connections and anywhere looms or harnesses pass through sheet metal for cuts or chaffing. Race cars produce a lot of vibrations. Electrical connections need to be tight and soldered if possible. Ground plane needs to be guaranteed low resistance path to battery negative. We weld a stud to the frame and drop a 2 ga cable from battery neg to the frame. That makes the frame the best ground point next to the battery. Never ground critical components to sheet metal. Grounds needs to be clean and tight. A star washer between the ring terminal and the frame is extra insurance. Grounds need to be clean and tight! Voltage drop testing will reveal poor connections, excessive resistance in the conductor, etc. of course if it only happens under a certain speed and load you won't duplicate it in the pits. You will have to explore for the cause or figure out a way to test for it while driving.
If you have access to a graphing volt meter that could be hooked up to suspect circuits and then reviewed after the event. Or even better a data logging system like the one we use often. Go to zeitronix.com. You can then make a run with rpm, map, and afr to reference against other inputs such as ignition voltage measured at the box for instance.
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Post by dennismopar73 on Jul 4, 2016 6:22:34 GMT -6
I hope it is the answer too Don! I am really at a lost. We have changed everything ignition and fuel related now. Going to go Wednesday and try again. For those that have been following the fuel pump was not the issue as after making 2 good passes Wednesday the car would not go down the track Saturday! I'll throw this out there, Is it any realm of possibilities that valve guides are to tight? Seen this on set of heads before , where do what your describing, not every pass Just a passing thought
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